{"id":3268,"date":"2025-08-06T08:43:36","date_gmt":"2025-08-06T01:43:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hef.gov.vn\/?p=3268"},"modified":"2025-08-06T08:43:36","modified_gmt":"2025-08-06T01:43:36","slug":"portraits-of-the-taste-keepers-preserving-the-soul-of-food","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hef.gov.vn\/vi\/portraits-of-the-taste-keepers-preserving-the-soul-of-food.html","title":{"rendered":"Ch\u00e2n dung ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u1eef v\u1ecb \u2013 L\u01b0u h\u1ed3n \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u1eef v\u1ecb \u2013 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ee7 qu\u00e1n, ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ea5u b\u1ebfp, con ch\u00e1u \u0111\u1eddi sau kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 b\u00e1n m\u00f3n \u0103n, m\u00e0 \u0111ang g\u00ecn gi\u1eef m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n n\u00e9t ri\u00eang c\u1ee7a t\u1eebng gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u00e0 xa h\u01a1n l\u00e0 h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u0103n h\u00f3a \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 n\u00e0y t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y x\u01b0a \u1ea5y.<\/p>\n

\"Portraits
Ph\u1edf D\u1eadu \u2013 Over Half a Century of a Single Northern Flavor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Nh\u1eafc \u0111\u1ebfn ph\u1edf B\u1eafc \u1edf S\u00e0i G\u00f2n, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ngh\u0129 ngay \u0111\u1ebfn Ph\u1edf D\u1eadu qu\u00e1n ph\u1edf n\u1eb1m trong con h\u1ebbm nh\u1ecf tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng Nam K\u1ef3 Kh\u1edfi Ngh\u0129a, ph\u01b0\u1eddng Xu\u00e2n H\u00f2a. Ch\u1ee7 qu\u00e1n l\u00e0 b\u00e0 D\u1eadu, ng\u01b0\u1eddi k\u1ebf nghi\u1ec7p t\u1eeb cha m\u1eb9 m\u00ecnh, v\u1eabn \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u1eb7n m\u1ed7i s\u00e1ng nh\u00f3m l\u00f2, ninh x\u01b0\u01a1ng, chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e8o trong veo, ng\u1ecdt thanh \u0111\u00fang chu\u1ea9n ph\u1edf B\u1eafc.<\/p>\n

Su\u1ed1t h\u01a1n 60 n\u0103m, Ph\u1edf D\u1eadu v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u00fang c\u00e1ch l\u00e0m ph\u1edf H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i: b\u00e1nh ph\u1edf m\u1ecfng, m\u1ec1m, th\u1ecbt b\u00f2 t\u01b0\u01a1i c\u1eaft tay, h\u00e0nh l\u00e1, m\u00f9i t\u00e0u \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1eb7n. Th\u1ef1c kh\u00e1ch t\u00ecm \u0111\u1ebfn kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0103n ph\u1edf, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n \u0111\u1ec3 g\u1eb7p b\u00e0 D\u1eadu ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n b\u00e0 nh\u1ecf nh\u1eafn, nhanh nh\u1eb9n, lu\u00f4n tay chan ph\u1edf, mi\u1ec7ng h\u1ecfi th\u0103m kh\u00e1ch quen. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u00f3i, \u0103n m\u1ed9t t\u00f4 ph\u1edf \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ee9c m\u00f3n \u0103n, m\u00e0 c\u00f2n nh\u01b0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ea3i nghi\u1ec7m c\u1ea3 k\u00fd \u1ee9c c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t S\u00e0i G\u00f2n c\u0169 n\u01a1i ng\u01b0\u1eddi B\u1eafc di c\u01b0 mang theo h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb qu\u00ea nh\u00e0 h\u00f2a v\u00e0o l\u00f2ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng Nam.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: H\u1ebbm 288 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng Nam K\u1ef3 Kh\u1edfi Ngh\u0129a, ph\u01b0\u1eddng Xu\u00e2n H\u00f2a.
\n\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

\"Portraits
H\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu C\u1ea3 C\u1ea7n \u2013 G\u00e1nh h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu gi\u1eefa l\u00f2ng Ch\u1ee3 L\u1edbn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u1ebfu Ph\u1edf D\u1eadu mang v\u1ecb B\u1eafc th\u00ec H\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu C\u1ea3 C\u1ea7n l\u1ea1i g\u1eafn li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi c\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Hoa \u1edf Ch\u1ee3 L\u1edbn. Qu\u00e1n m\u1edf t\u1eeb th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 1940, nay do \u00f4ng C\u1ea7n ch\u00e1u n\u1ed9i c\u1ee7a c\u1ee5 C\u1ea3 ti\u1ebfp qu\u1ea3n. M\u1ed7i s\u00e1ng s\u1edbm, tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1eeda ti\u1ec7m \u1edf \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng H\u00f9ng V\u01b0\u01a1ng, ph\u01b0\u1eddng An \u0110\u00f4ng, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111\u00e3 th\u1ea5y \u00f4ng C\u1ea7n l\u00fai h\u00fai chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb t\u1eebng v\u1eaft h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu, n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e8o h\u1ea7m t\u1eeb x\u01b0\u01a1ng \u1ed1ng, th\u1ecbt b\u1eb1m, gan heo, t\u00f4m t\u01b0\u01a1i.<\/p>\n

\u00d4ng C\u1ea7n v\u1eabn gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean c\u00f4ng th\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a \u00f4ng n\u1ed9i: n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e8o kh\u00f4ng qu\u00e1 ng\u1ecdt, s\u1ee3i h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu dai m\u1ec1m, \u0103n k\u00e8m t\u00f3p m\u1ee1 chi\u00ean gi\u00f2n. H\u1ecfi sao kh\u00f4ng m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng th\u00e0nh nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng l\u1edbn, \u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 c\u01b0\u1eddi: \u201cH\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu nh\u00e0 t\u00f4i b\u00e1n v\u1eady th\u00f4i, g\u00e1nh nh\u1ecf m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ee7 s\u1ed1ng, ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 gi\u1eef v\u1ecb, kh\u00f4ng m\u1ea5t \u0111i c\u00e1i h\u1ed3n Ch\u1ee3 L\u1edbn x\u01b0a.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 110 H\u00f9ng V\u01b0\u01a1ng, ph\u01b0\u1eddng An \u0110\u00f4ng
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

\"Portraits
B\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n T\u00e2y H\u1ed3 \u2013 T\u1ea5m b\u00e1nh m\u1ecfng gi\u1eef ch\u00e2n ng\u01b0\u1eddi S\u00e0i G\u00f2n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

N\u1eb1m n\u00e9p m\u00ecnh tr\u00ean con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng \u0110inh Ti\u00ean Ho\u00e0ng (B\u00ecnh Th\u1ea1nh c\u0169), b\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n T\u00e2y H\u1ed3 l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba ch\u1ec9 quen thu\u1ed9c c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ebf h\u1ec7. Qu\u00e1n m\u1edf t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1961, n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng v\u1edbi b\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n tr\u00e1ng m\u1ecfng, nh\u00e2n th\u1ecbt b\u0103m v\u00e0 n\u1ea5m m\u00e8o \u0111\u1eadm \u0111\u00e0, ch\u1ea3 l\u1ee5a v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1eafm pha kh\u00e9o, cay nh\u1eb9, ng\u1ecdt thanh.<\/p>\n

B\u00e0 Ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng con g\u00e1i ng\u01b0\u1eddi s\u00e1ng l\u1eadp nay ngo\u00e0i 70 tu\u1ed5i, v\u1eabn \u0111\u1ee9ng b\u1ebfp tr\u00e1ng b\u00e1nh. Tay b\u00e0 tho\u0103n tho\u1eaft \u0111\u1ed5 b\u1ed9t, h\u1ea5p b\u00e1nh, x\u1ebfp ra d\u0129a. Nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ef1c kh\u00e1ch gh\u00e9 qu\u00e1n ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00ecn b\u00e0n tay quen thu\u1ed9c \u1ea5y, v\u00e0 nghe b\u00e0 k\u1ec3 chuy\u1ec7n ng\u00e0y tr\u01b0\u1edbc: \u201cH\u1ed3i x\u01b0a m\u1eb9 t\u00f4i g\u00e1nh b\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n ra ch\u1ee3 b\u00e1n. B\u00e1n ri\u1ebft kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u00f4ng, r\u1ed3i m\u1edf ti\u1ec7m. Gi\u1edd t\u00f4i gi\u00e0 r\u1ed3i m\u00e0 v\u1eabn kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ngh\u1ec1, ngh\u1ec9 l\u00e0 nh\u1edb m\u00f9i b\u1ed9t, nh\u1edb m\u00f9i h\u00e0nh phi.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 127 \u0110inh Ti\u00ean Ho\u00e0ng, ph\u01b0\u1eddng T\u00e2n \u0110\u1ecbnh.
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y.<\/p>\n

H\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu c\u00e1 Nam L\u1ee3i \u2013 N\u00e9t ri\u00eang gi\u1eefa l\u00f2ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u1ea8n m\u00ecnh trong con h\u1ebbm nh\u1ecf \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng T\u00f4n Th\u1ea5t \u0110\u1ea1m, h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu c\u00e1 Nam L\u1ee3i l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ecba ch\u1ec9 quen thu\u1ed9c v\u1edbi d\u00e2n s\u00e0nh \u0103n. Qu\u00e1n m\u1edf t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1950, nay do b\u00e0 L\u00fd con g\u00e1i c\u1ee5 Nam L\u1ee3i qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd. M\u1ed7i s\u00e1ng, b\u00e0 L\u00fd c\u00f3 m\u1eb7t t\u1eeb 4 gi\u1edd \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ef1a c\u00e1 l\u00f3c t\u01b0\u01a1i, l\u1ecdc x\u01b0\u01a1ng, th\u00e1i l\u00e1t m\u1ecfng, chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng trong, thanh.<\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 c\u00e1 l\u00f3c \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng tanh m\u00e0 ng\u1ecdt th\u1ecbt, \u0103n k\u00e8m h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu m\u1ec1m, chan n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng s\u00f4i nghi ng\u00fat, r\u1eafc th\u00eam ti\u00eau s\u1ecd, h\u00e0nh l\u00e1. Nhi\u1ec1u th\u1ef1c kh\u00e1ch b\u1ea3o r\u1eb1ng, \u0103n m\u1ed9t t\u00f4 h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu c\u00e1 Nam L\u1ee3i xong m\u1edbi th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c ng\u01b0\u1eddi Hoa pha l\u1eabn c\u00e1ch l\u00e0m ri\u00eang c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 43 T\u00f4n Th\u1ea5t \u0110\u1ea1m, ph\u01b0\u1eddng S\u00e0i G\u00f2n.
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

Qu\u00e1n \u0110\u1ed3ng Nh\u00e2n C\u01a1m B\u00e0 C\u1ea3 \u2013 V\u1ecb c\u01a1m nh\u00e0 gi\u1eefa ph\u1ed1 T\u00e2y<\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u1eb1m l\u1ecdt th\u1ecfm tr\u00ean \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng L\u00ea Th\u00e1nh T\u00f4n, ngay gi\u1eefa khu ph\u1ed1 T\u00e2y t\u1ea5p n\u1eadp, C\u01a1m B\u00e0 C\u1ea3 v\u1eabn gi\u1eef c\u00e1ch b\u00e1n c\u01a1m truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 th\u1eddi bao c\u1ea5p: c\u01a1m tr\u1eafng n\u00f3ng h\u1ed5i, c\u00e1c m\u00f3n m\u1eb7n nh\u01b0 c\u00e1 kho, th\u1ecbt kho tr\u1ee9ng, canh chua, rau x\u00e0o\u2026 \u0111\u1ec1u b\u00e0y g\u1ecdn g\u00e0ng trong khay inox. B\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u t\u1eeb trong h\u1ebbm nh\u1ecf ho\u1eb7c v\u1ec9a h\u00e8 v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng qu\u1ea3ng c\u00e1o, t\u00f4 v\u1ebd nh\u01b0ng nhi\u1ec1u qu\u00e1n x\u00e1, c\u1eeda ti\u1ec7m \u0111\u00e3 l\u00e0m n\u00ean th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u ri\u00eang v\u00e0 l\u1edbn m\u1ea1nh, v\u1eefng b\u1ec1n c\u00f9ng n\u0103m th\u00e1ng.<\/p>\n

C\u00f3 l\u1ebd \u1edf th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m tr\u01b0\u1edbc n\u0103m 1960 S\u00e0i G\u00f2n h\u1ed3i \u1ea5y ch\u01b0a c\u00f3 qu\u00e1n \u0103n mang h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb B\u1eafc n\u00ean ng\u01b0\u1eddi g\u1ed1c B\u1eafc t\u00ecm t\u1edbi \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ee1 nh\u1edb qu\u00ea, c\u00f2n ng\u01b0\u1eddi Nam th\u00ec t\u00ecm c\u00e1i v\u1ecb l\u1ea1. D\u00f9 v\u1edbi c\u1ea3m x\u00fac n\u00e0o, th\u1ef1c kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ec1u nh\u00ecn nh\u1eadn \u0111i\u1ec1u l\u00f4i k\u00e9o h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 m\u00f3n \u0103n c\u1ee5 T\u00fac n\u1ea5u kh\u00f4ng ch\u00ea v\u00e0o \u0111\u00e2u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. Ch\u1eb3ng ph\u1ea3i s\u01a1n h\u00e0o h\u1ea3i v\u1ecb g\u00ec, ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n \u0103n \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, quen thu\u1ed9c trong b\u1eefa c\u01a1m h\u1eb1ng ng\u00e0y c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi B\u1eafc nh\u01b0 canh cua rau \u0111ay, c\u00e0 ph\u00e1o - m\u1eafm t\u00f4m - th\u1ecbt lu\u1ed9c, \u0111\u1eadu h\u0169 chi\u00ean, gi\u00f2 heo gi\u1ea3 c\u1ea7y, \u1ed1c b\u01b0\u01a1u n\u1ea5u chu\u1ed1i, tr\u1ee9ng \u0111\u00fac th\u1ecbt, th\u1ecbt \u0111\u00f4ng, d\u01b0a chua... nh\u01b0ng ai \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ed9t l\u1ea7n \u0103n \u1edf qu\u00e1n B\u00e0 C\u1ea3 th\u00ec kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 n\u00e0o qu\u00ean. Qu\u00e1n c\u01a1m \u0111\u1ebfn nay \u0111\u00e3 truy\u1ec1n qua \u0111\u1eddi con, ch\u00e1u nh\u01b0ng h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u1eabn nh\u01b0 ng\u00e0y x\u01b0a - \u201cC\u00f3 nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u00fang c\u00e1ch ch\u1ebf bi\u1ebfn, h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb B\u1eafc nh\u01b0 m\u00e1 t\u1eebng l\u00e0m\u201d, l\u1eddi b\u00e0 \u0110inh Th\u1ecb H\u01b0\u1eddng con g\u00e1i ru\u1ed9t c\u1ee7a b\u00e0 T\u00fac ch\u1ee7 qu\u00e1n chia s\u1ebb.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 43 T\u00f4n Th\u1ea5t \u0110\u1ea1m, ph\u01b0\u1eddng B\u1ebfn Ngh\u00e9.
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

H\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu Nghi\u1ec7p K\u00fd \u2013 Ti\u1ec7m m\u00ec \u201cth\u1ea3y\u201d gia truy\u1ec1n<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00ec \u201cth\u1ea3y\u201d Nghi\u1ec7p K\u00fd l\u00e0 qu\u00e1n \u0103n quen thu\u1ed9c v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n ph\u1ed1 bi\u1ec3n V\u0169ng T\u00e0u v\u00e0 du kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u00e3 t\u1eeb r\u1ea5t l\u00e2u. Th\u1ef1c kh\u00e1ch gh\u00e9 qu\u00e1n, ngo\u00e0i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ee9c m\u00f3n m\u00ec ki\u1ec3u Hoa, c\u00f2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c xem m\u00e0n tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n th\u1ea3y v\u1ee3t ch\u1ee9a m\u00ec l\u00ean cao r\u1ed3i \u0111\u1ec3 m\u00ec r\u01a1i xu\u1ed1ng v\u00f4 c\u00f9ng \u0111i\u1ec7u ngh\u1ec7.<\/p>\n

Khi th\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ee9c t\u00f4 m\u00ec \u201cth\u1ea3y\u201d truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng t\u1ea1i qu\u00e1n Nghi\u1ec7p K\u00fd, b\u1ea1n s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 m\u1ed9t t\u00f4 m\u00ec t\u01b0\u01a1i \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng v\u1edbi x\u00e0 l\u00e1ch b\u00ean d\u01b0\u1edbi, m\u00ec t\u01b0\u01a1i, th\u1ecbt heo lu\u1ed9c, s\u01b0\u1eddn non m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 th\u1ecbt b\u1eb1m. Sau \u0111\u00f3, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 s\u1ebd th\u00eam h\u00e0nh t\u01b0\u01a1i v\u00e0 chan n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng n\u00f3ng h\u1ed5i l\u00ean tr\u00ean. N\u1ebfu th\u00edch, b\u1ea1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 y\u00eau c\u1ea7u th\u00eam gi\u00e1 tr\u1ee5ng v\u00e0o t\u00f4 m\u00ec. Th\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ee9c m\u00f3n \u0103n n\u00e0y c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng h\u1ec1 c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3, b\u1ea1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 cho th\u00eam n\u01b0\u1edbc t\u01b0\u01a1ng, chanh v\u00e0 \u1edbt t\u01b0\u01a1i v\u00e0o tr\u1ed9n \u0111\u1ec1u tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi th\u01b0\u1edfng th\u1ee9c. V\u1ecb ng\u1ecdt thanh c\u1ee7a n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng h\u00f2a quy\u1ec7n c\u00f9ng v\u1edbi v\u1ecb b\u00e9o c\u1ee7a s\u1ee3i m\u00ec, v\u1ecb m\u1ec1m ng\u1ecdt c\u1ee7a th\u1ecbt, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng kh\u00f3 c\u01b0\u1ee1ng.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 127 Ba Cu, ph\u01b0\u1eddng V\u0169ng T\u00e0u.
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

Ph\u1edf Th\u1ee7y Nguy\u00ean \u2013 m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi \u0111\u1ec3 nh\u1edb<\/strong><\/p>\n

Qu\u00e1n ph\u1edf quen thu\u1ed9c v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n v\u00e0 du kh\u00e1ch ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1eeb tr\u01b0\u1edbc n\u0103m 1954, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1edf b\u1edfi c\u1ee5 B\u00f9i Th\u1ecb Thi\u1ec7n, ng\u01b0\u1eddi H\u1ea3i Ph\u00f2ng, v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t t\u00ean theo huy\u1ec7n Th\u1ee7y Nguy\u00ean qu\u00ea b\u00e0. Ki\u1ebfn tr\u00fac qu\u00e1n mang phong c\u00e1ch hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i mi\u1ec1n Nam t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 50-90, n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u1edbi g\u1ea1ch b\u00f4ng, qu\u1ea1t s\u1eaft, v\u00e0 c\u1eeda v\u00f2m, t\u1ea1o c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c g\u1ea7n g\u0169i, th\u00e2n thu\u1ed9c.<\/p>\n

Ph\u1edf Th\u1ee7y Nguy\u00ean n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u1edbi h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng ninh t\u1eeb x\u01b0\u01a1ng su\u1ed1t \u0111\u00eam, gi\u00fap n\u01b0\u1edbc ph\u1edf trong v\u00e0 ng\u1ecdt. B\u00e1nh ph\u1edf m\u1ec1m m\u1ecbn, kh\u00f4ng d\u00f9ng ch\u1ea5t b\u1ea3o qu\u1ea3n, c\u00f2n th\u1ecbt b\u00f2 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00e1i tay m\u1ecfng \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t. Qu\u00e1n c\u00f2n ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 m\u00f3n tr\u1ee9ng l\u00f2ng \u0111\u00e0o \u0103n k\u00e8m n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng, v\u00e0 tr\u00e0 th\u01a1m trong b\u00ecnh nh\u00f4m, g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb v\u1ec1 th\u1eddi x\u01b0a.<\/p>\n

Su\u1ed1t h\u01a1n 60 n\u0103m, d\u00f9 c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n s\u1eeda ch\u1eefa, qu\u00e1n v\u1eabn gi\u1eef nguy\u00ean h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng kh\u00ed nh\u01b0 ban \u0111\u1ea7u. \u0110\u1ebfn nay, con ch\u00e1u c\u1ee7a c\u1ee5 Thi\u1ec7n v\u1eabn ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c duy tr\u00ec qu\u00e1n, gi\u1eef g\u00ecn gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, n\u01a1i m\u00e0 nh\u1eefng kh\u00e1ch quen, t\u1eeb ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1edbn tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00e1c gia \u0111\u00ecnh tr\u1ebb, \u0111\u1ec1u t\u00ecm th\u1ea5y nh\u1eefng k\u1ef7 ni\u1ec7m v\u00e0 h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb g\u1eafn b\u00f3.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 38 Ba Cu, ph\u01b0\u1eddng V\u0169ng T\u00e0u.
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

\"Portraits
B\u00fan m\u1eafm M\u01b0\u1eddi Thanh \u2013 H\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n T\u00e2y gi\u1eefa l\u00f2ng B\u00ecnh D\u01b0\u01a1ng<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1eeb n\u0103m 2001, b\u00fan m\u1eafm M\u01b0\u1eddi Thanh b\u1eaft ngu\u1ed3n t\u1eeb t\u00ecnh c\u1ea3m c\u1ee7a ch\u1ecb M\u01b0\u1eddi Thanh, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef g\u1ed1c B\u1ebfn Tre d\u00e0nh cho m\u00f3n \u0103n qu\u00ea h\u01b0\u01a1ng. V\u00ec th\u01b0\u01a1ng nh\u1edb h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb th\u00e2n thu\u1ed9c, ch\u1ecb b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u n\u1ea5u b\u00fan m\u1eafm \u0111\u1ec3 b\u00e1n, kh\u00f4ng ng\u1edd l\u1ea1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi y\u00eau th\u00edch. D\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n, qu\u00e1n b\u00fan nh\u1ecf n\u0103m n\u00e0o tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1n \u0103n n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng \u1edf Th\u1ee7 D\u1ea7u M\u1ed9t.<\/p>\n

B\u00fan m\u1eafm l\u00e0 m\u00f3n \u0103n \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi s\u1ef1 c\u00f4ng phu, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t \u1edf ph\u1ea7n n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e8o. M\u1eafm linh v\u00e0 m\u1eafm s\u1eb7c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c n\u1ea5u l\u1ea5y n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ed1t, k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u00f9ng n\u01b0\u1edbc h\u1ea7m x\u01b0\u01a1ng \u1ed1ng v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u1eeba xi\u00eam \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o v\u1ecb ng\u1ecdt thanh, b\u00e9o nh\u1eb9. S\u1ea3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eadp d\u1eadp, th\u1ea3 v\u00e0o n\u1ed3i cho th\u01a1m d\u1ecbu, c\u00f9ng v\u1edbi v\u00e0i \u201cb\u00ed quy\u1ebft gia truy\u1ec1n\u201d m\u00e0 ch\u1ecb M\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u1eef ri\u00eang, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e8o s\u00f3ng s\u00e1nh, v\u1eeba d\u1eady m\u00f9i v\u1eeba \u0111\u1eadm v\u1ecb nh\u01b0ng kh\u00f4ng g\u1eaft, kh\u00f4ng n\u1ed3ng.<\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec3m kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a qu\u00e1n n\u1eb1m \u1edf s\u1ee3i b\u00fan nhuy\u1ec5n, thay v\u00ec d\u00f9ng lo\u1ea1i b\u00fan to th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1ea5y \u1edf c\u00e1c qu\u00e1n b\u00fan m\u1eafm kh\u00e1c. T\u00f4 b\u00fan \u0111\u1ea7y \u0111\u1eb7n v\u1edbi t\u00f4m t\u01b0\u01a1i ch\u1eafc th\u1ecbt, m\u1ef1c tr\u1eafng gi\u00f2n, th\u1ecbt quay, \u1edbt nh\u1ed3i c\u00e1 th\u00e1c l\u00e1c. \u0102n k\u00e8m l\u00e0 \u0111\u0129a rau s\u1ed1ng g\u1ed3m rau \u0111\u1eafng, b\u00f4ng s\u00fang, k\u00e8o n\u00e8o, rau mu\u1ed1ng b\u00e0o\u2026 t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 h\u00f2a quy\u1ec7n c\u00f9ng ch\u00e9n m\u1eafm me pha chua ng\u1ecdt gi\u00fap m\u00f3n \u0103n th\u00eam ph\u1ea7n tr\u1ecdn v\u1ecb.<\/p>\n

B\u00fan m\u1eafm c\u00f3 m\u00f9i v\u1ecb \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng n\u00ean \u0111\u00f4i khi h\u01a1i k\u00e9n ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0103n, nh\u01b0ng khi \u0111\u00e3 quen th\u00ec l\u1ea1i r\u1ea5t d\u1ec5 \u201cghi\u1ec1n\u201d. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi, m\u00f3n b\u00fan m\u1eafm \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 ngon m\u00e0 c\u00f2n g\u1ee3i nh\u1edb h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n T\u00e2y m\u1ed9c m\u1ea1c gi\u1eefa l\u00f2ng th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ecba ch\u1ec9: 86\/2 Nguy\u1ec5n V\u0103n Ti\u1ebft, Ph\u00fa C\u01b0\u1eddng, P. Th\u1ee7 D\u1ea7u M\u1ed9t, TP. H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh
\nPh\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n di chuy\u1ec3n: xe m\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c xe h\u01a1i c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n<\/p>\n

Ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u1eef v\u1ecb \u2013 nh\u1eefng k\u00fd \u1ee9c s\u1ed1ng<\/h2>\n

Gi\u1eefa S\u00e0i G\u00f2n, c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 \u0111\u00e3 bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t, c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 \u0111\u1ed5i thay, nh\u01b0ng v\u1ecb ph\u1edf, h\u1ee7 ti\u1ebfu, b\u00e1nh cu\u1ed1n, b\u00e1nh \u01b0\u1edbt hay ch\u00e9n c\u01a1m b\u00ecnh d\u00e2n kia v\u1eabn c\u00f2n \u0111\u00f3 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t l\u1eddi nh\u1eafc v\u1ec1 k\u00fd \u1ee9c, v\u1ec1 s\u1ef1 b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 c\u1ee7a con ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ea5t n\u00e0y.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng qu\u00e1n \u0103n l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi, truy\u1ec1n qua bao th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng con ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ee9ng b\u1ebfp, tay tr\u00e1ng b\u00e1nh, tay chan ph\u1edf\u2026 ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi g\u00ecn gi\u1eef v\u1ecb x\u01b0a, \u0111\u1ec3 S\u00e0i G\u00f2n kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd m\u1ea5t \u0111i c\u00e1i h\u1ed3n \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c dung d\u1ecb, \u1ea5m \u00e1p t\u00ecnh ng\u01b0\u1eddi.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c y\u00eau c\u1ea7u li\u00ean quan \u0111\u1ebfn b\u00e1o ch\u00ed v\u00e0 truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng, vui l\u00f2ng li\u00ean h\u1ec7 S\u1edf Du l\u1ecbch TP. H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh qua email: info@visithcmc.vn.<\/p>\n

Gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u v\u1ec1 S\u1edf Du l\u1ecbch Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh<\/h2>\n

S\u1edf Du l\u1ecbch TP. H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh l\u00e0 c\u01a1 quan qu\u1ea3n l\u00fd nh\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u1ecbu tr\u00e1ch nhi\u1ec7m ch\u00ednh trong vi\u1ec7c qu\u1ea3ng b\u00e1 v\u00e0 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n ng\u00e0nh du l\u1ecbch c\u1ee7a th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1. Th\u00f4ng qua c\u00e1c ch\u01b0\u01a1ng tr\u00ecnh x\u00fac ti\u1ebfn th\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u1ea1i, h\u1ed9i ch\u1ee3 du l\u1ecbch, tri\u1ec3n l\u00e3m chuy\u00ean ng\u00e0nh v\u00e0 chi\u1ebfn d\u1ecbch truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf, S\u1edf Du l\u1ecbch n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c \u0111\u1ecbnh v\u1ecb TP. H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec3m \u0111\u1ebfn h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u d\u00e0nh cho du kh\u00e1ch qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf v\u00e0 n\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ecba, ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 c\u1ea3 m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch ngh\u1ec9 d\u01b0\u1ee1ng l\u1eabn c\u00f4ng t\u00e1c.<\/p>\n

Website: www.visithcmc.vn
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These “Taste-Keepers”\u2014the owners, the cooks, and the descendants who follow them\u2014are not just selling food. They are preserving the unique character of their families and, by extension, the cultural taste of this city from days gone by. When people in Saigon think of Northern-style pho, they immediately think of Ph\u1edf D\u1eadu, a pho shop tucked […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3269,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[79],"tags":[146],"class_list":{"0":"post-3268","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-discover-cuisines","8":"tag-ho-chi-minh-city-department-of-tourism"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPortraits of the Taste-Keepers: Preserving the Soul of Food - The Autumn Economic Forum<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/hef.gov.vn\/vi\/portraits-of-the-taste-keepers-preserving-the-soul-of-food.html\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"vi_VN\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Portraits of the Taste-Keepers: Preserving the Soul of Food\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"These “Taste-Keepers”\u2014the owners, the cooks, and the descendants who follow them\u2014are not just selling food. They are preserving the unique character of their families and, by extension, the cultural taste of this city from days gone by. 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