These “Taste-Keepers”—the owners, the cooks, and the descendants who follow them—are not just selling food. They are preserving the unique character of their families and, by extension, the cultural taste of this city from days gone by.

When people in Saigon think of Northern-style pho, they immediately think of Phở Dậu, a pho shop tucked away in a small alley off Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street in Xuan Hoa Ward. The owner, Mrs. Dậu, who took over the business from her parents, still fires up the stove every morning to simmer the bones for a clear, delicately sweet broth, true to the Northern standard.

For over 60 years, Phở Dậu has stayed true to the original Hanoi way of making pho: thin, soft rice noodles, fresh hand-sliced beef, and a generous topping of green onions and herbs. Customers come not only to eat pho but also to see Mrs. Dậu—a small, brisk woman who is always busy serving noodles and greeting familiar faces. Many say that eating a bowl of pho here is not just enjoying a meal, but experiencing a memory of old Saigon, where Northern migrants brought the tastes of their homeland to the southern city.

Address: Alley 288, Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street, Xuan Hoa Ward.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

While Phở Dậu carries the taste of the North, Hủ tiếu Cả Cần is deeply connected to the Chinese community in Cholon (the city’s Chinatown). The stall opened in the 1940s and is now run by Mr. Cần, the grandson of the original owner. Every morning in front of the shop on Hung Vuong Street in An Dong Ward, you can see Mr. Cần busy preparing portions of noodles, a pot of broth simmered from pork bones, minced meat, pig liver, and fresh shrimp.

Mr. Cần still uses his grandfather’s original recipe: the broth is not overly sweet, the noodles are chewy yet soft, and it’s served with crispy fried pork fat. When asked why he doesn’t expand into a bigger restaurant, he just smiles and says, “My family’s hủ tiếu is just sold like this. A small stall is enough to live on. The main thing is to keep the taste and not lose the old soul of Cholon.”

Address: 110 Hung Vuong Street, An Dong Ward.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

Tucked away on Dinh Tien Hoang Street (in what was formerly Binh Thanh district), Bánh Cuốn Tây Hồ is a familiar spot for many generations. Opened in 1961, the shop is famous for its thinly steamed rice rolls filled with savory minced pork and wood-ear mushrooms, served with pork sausage and a skillfully mixed fish sauce that is lightly spicy and sweet.

Mrs. Phượng, the founder’s daughter, is now over 70 but still stands at the stove making the rolls. Her hands move swiftly, pouring the batter, steaming the delicate sheets, and arranging them on a plate. Many customers visit just to watch her familiar hands at work and to hear her stories of the past: “Back then, my mother used to carry the bánh cuốn on a shoulder pole to sell at the market. She got so many customers that she eventually opened a shop. Now I’m old, but I can’t give up the trade. If I stop, I’ll miss the smell of the batter and fried shallots.”

Address: 127 Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Tan Dinh Ward.
Getting there: Motorbike.

Nam Lợi Fish Hủ Tiếu – A Unique Flavor in the Heart of the City

Hidden in a small alley on Ton That Dam Street, Nam Lợi Fish Hủ Tiếu is a well-known address for food connoisseurs. The shop opened in 1950 and is now managed by Mrs. Lý, the daughter of the founder, Mr. Nam Lợi. Every morning, Mrs. Lý arrives at 4 AM to select fresh snakehead fish, remove the bones, slice it thinly, and prepare a clear, refined broth.

The special feature here is the snakehead fish, which is sweet rather than fishy. It is served with soft noodles in a steaming hot broth, sprinkled with ground pepper and green onions. Many customers say that after eating a bowl of Nam Lợi’s fish noodle soup, you can truly appreciate the subtlety of Chinese cuisine blended with a unique Vietnamese touch.

Address: 43 Ton That Dam Street, Saigon Ward.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

Đồng Nhân Cơm Bà Cả – A Homestyle Meal in the “Western” Quarter

Tucked away on Le Thanh Ton Street, right in the middle of the bustling “Western” quarter, Cơm Bà Cả still serves rice in the traditional style of Vietnam’s subsidy era. Hot steamed rice and savory dishes like braised fish, pork stewed with eggs, sour soup, and stir-fried vegetables are all neatly displayed in stainless steel trays. Many eateries like this started in small alleys or on sidewalks without any advertising, yet they built their own brands that have grown strong and endured over time.

Perhaps before 1960, there were no restaurants in Saigon serving Northern flavors, so people from the North came here to ease their homesickness, while Southerners came to try something new. Whatever their reason, customers all agreed that what first drew them in was the flawless cooking of Mrs. Túc. These weren’t delicacies, just simple, familiar dishes from daily Northern meals like crab soup with jute leaves, fermented shrimp paste with boiled pork and pickled eggplant, fried tofu, braised pork knuckle, and snails cooked with green bananas. But anyone who ate at Bà Cả’s even once could never forget it. The restaurant has since been passed down to her children and grandchildren, but the flavor remains the same. “Some dishes are still made with the exact same Northern taste and methods that my mother used,” shares Mrs. Đinh Thị Hường, Mrs. Túc’s daughter.

Address: 43 Ton That Dam Street, Ben Nghe Ward.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

Nghiệp Ký Hủ Tiếu – The Hereditary “Tossed” Noodle Shop

“Tossed” noodle or Mì Thảy Nghiệp Ký has long been a familiar eatery for both locals and tourists in the coastal city of Vung Tau. Visitors to the shop not only get to enjoy Chinese-style noodles but are also treated to a skillful performance where the cook tosses a basket of noodles high into the air before letting them fall perfectly back down.

When you order a traditional “tossed” noodle bowl at Nghiệp Ký, you’ll be served a bowl of fresh noodles over a bed of lettuce, topped with boiled pork, soft pork ribs, and minced meat. The server then adds fresh onions and pours hot broth over everything. You can also request blanched bean sprouts. Enjoying the dish is simple: add soy sauce, lime, and fresh chili, then mix well. The clean, sweet taste of the broth combines with the richness of the noodles and the tender meat to create an irresistibly unique flavor.

Address: 127 Ba Cu Street, Vung Tau City.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

Phở Thủy Nguyên – A Time to Remember

A beloved pho restaurant for many locals and tourists, this spot was established before 1954 by Mrs. Bùi Thị Thiện, a native of Hai Phong. She named it Phở Thủy Nguyên after her home district. The restaurant’s architecture reflects the modern Southern style of the 1950s-90s, featuring patterned floor tiles, iron fans, and arched doorways that create a warm and familiar atmosphere.

Phở Thủy Nguyên is known for its traditional Northern flavor, especially its broth, which is simmered from bones all night to make it clear and sweet. The rice noodles are soft and made without preservatives, while the beef is thinly hand-sliced to preserve its distinct taste. The restaurant also serves a soft-boiled egg in broth and fragrant tea in an aluminum pot, evoking memories of the old days.

For over 60 years, despite several renovations, the restaurant has maintained its original flavor and atmosphere. Today, Mrs. Thiện’s descendants continue to run the business, preserving a traditional place where regular customers, from the elderly to young families, all find cherished memories and flavors.

Address: 38 Ba Cu Street, Vung Tau City.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

Established in 2001, Bún Mắm Mười Thanh was born from the love that its owner, Mrs. Mười Thanh, a woman from Ben Tre province, has for her hometown cuisine. Missing the familiar flavors, she started cooking bún mắm (fermented fish noodle soup) to sell and was surprised when it became a local favorite. Over time, her small stall grew into a famous restaurant in Thu Dau Mot City.

Bún mắm is a complex dish, especially the broth. Fermented fish is cooked down to extract its essence, then combined with pork bone broth and fresh coconut water for a clean, sweet, and slightly rich flavor. Crushed lemongrass is added for a gentle aroma, along with a few “family secrets” that Mrs. Mười keeps to herself, creating a broth that is savory and fragrant without being overpowering.

What makes this restaurant different is its use of thin vermicelli noodles, instead of the thicker type usually found in other bún mắm shops. A full bowl comes with firm fresh shrimp, crispy white squid, roasted pork, and chili stuffed with fish cake. It’s served with a plate of fresh herbs like bitter greens, water lily stems, and water mimosa, all perfectly complemented by a side of sweet and sour tamarind fish sauce.

Bún mắm has a distinctive aroma that can be an acquired taste, but once you’re used to it, it’s easy to get addicted. For many, the bún mắm here is not just delicious; it’s a taste of the rustic Mekong Delta in the heart of an industrial city.

Address: 86/2 Nguyen Van Tiet, Phu Cuong Ward, Thu Dau Mot City, Binh Duong Province.
Getting there: Motorbike or car.

The Taste-Keepers – Living Memories

In Saigon, some things have disappeared and others have changed, but the taste of that pho, hủ tiếu, bánh cuốn, or simple rice meal remains—a reminder of memory and the resilience of the city’s people.

These long-standing eateries, passed down through generations, with the people who stand at the stove, spread the batter, and ladle the broth… they are the true keepers of the old tastes, ensuring that Saigon never loses its simple, warm, and soulful culinary spirit.

For press and media inquiries, please contact the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Tourism via email: info@visithcmc.vn.

About the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Tourism

The Ho Chi Minh City Department of Tourism is the official state agency responsible for promoting and developing the city’s tourism industry. Through trade promotion programs, tourism fairs, specialized exhibitions, and international media campaigns, the Department of Tourism strives to position Ho Chi Minh City as a leading destination for both international and domestic travelers, for both leisure and business purposes.

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